How Can A Bean Burger Help Tackle Hidden Hunger?
From the Field
A chef, a scientist, and a journalist walk into a cafe and order a biofortified bean burger…
Over 3 billion people around the world suffer from hidden hunger, a condition where individuals consume enough calories daily but lack essential micronutrients like iron and zinc.
Since 2002, researchers from the Alliance of Bioversity International and the International Center for Tropical Agriculture (abbreviated as CIAT) have been breeding high-nutrient staple crops and finding ways to integrate them into popular foods.
One result of this work has been a collaboration between a researcher and a chef to make a vegan hamburger with a frijol (bean) high in zinc and iron. Science journalist Andrew Wight went to Dulcinea Café Vintage in the leafy northern suburbs of Cali,Colombia and sat down with CIAT senior researcher Sonia Gallego and vegan restaurant owner and chef Leonardo Carrara to talk about the project and to sample the burger itself.
The following interview has been translated from Spanish and edited for length and content.
Andrew Wight: So where did the idea of this vegan burger come from?
Leonardo: I really love hamburgers and when I became a vegan later in life, burgers were one of the last things I switched over. Since I opened Dulcinea a few years ago, I have been on the quest for ingredients to make a vegan hamburger that was nutritious and tasted good that no one could say 'I don't like this'. Then one day the solution literally walked in the door: some CIAT researchers came in for a meal, talking about the biofortified bean they were working on and I realized it had the potential to perfect our vegan burger!
Andrew Wight: So Sonia, I understand that this special bean is the product of your work on biofortification. How is this different, from say, flour that has extra vitamins added into it?
Sonia Gallego: Fortification is a process where food industries might add micronutrients to foods during processing, to make up for a lack of these nutrients in the local diet or to restore something lost during processing.
But biofortification is when you selectively breed a crop, like a bean, until you get seeds that already have high levels of the nutrients you want contained in the plant. From then on, you just plant the seed and the crops have more iron and zinc in its grain, which means people who eat them get more of those minerals in their diet. In the case of biofortified beans, the iron content is maintained during processing, so wherever you use those beans, for example, in a vegan hamburger, that iron remains intact from beginning to end.
Andrew Wight: What’s the end goal of these biofortified foods?
Sonia Gallego: One big aim of our program is to strengthen the nutritional outcomes for farmers and their families in rural areas. So we have to reach them with products that are from their daily staples: we have biofortified beans, rice, yucca (cassava) and corn. The burger is another way to demonstrate how our products can get from the field to the plate and seeing people here eating burgers made from our beans is very satisfying, like seeing your kids all grown up!
Leonardo: With that, let’s eat!
Andrew: So, it has a dark, meaty color, a juiciness like a beef patty and the burger has a texture closer to meat than I was expecting. All around, this is delicious!
Fast Facts:
What is Staple Crop biofortification?
- Staple crop biofortification is an effective, demand-driven solution to hidden hunger, especially for smallholder farming families who primarily consume what they grow, cannot afford diverse diets, and are difficult to reach with food fortification or supplementation programs.
- Eight biofortified varieties of beans, rice, corn and sweet potatoes are already registered and available in Colombia for production and consumption.
- As part of the impact of the Alliance of Bioversity International and CIAT, more than 115,000 kg of biofortified seeds have been distributed, benefiting more than 50,000 Colombian rural families.
More Recipes
In order to achieve a greater nutritional impact on local populations through more nutritious food products, the Alliance has developed a recipe book using biofortified crops as ingredients or raw materials to increase their nutritional value. This publication provides easy, healthy recipes for the preparation of biofortified foods:
More Biofortification Projects
There many biofortification initiatives happening at The Alliance of Bioversity International and CIAT.
Teff:
A study looked at the effect of Zn, Se and N fertilizer, landscape position, and its interaction with micronutrient fertilizers on grain micronutrient concentrations in Teff.
Rice:
An experimental auction in Colombia, to determine community sentiment and knowledge of biofortified rice.
Cassava:
An initial step in the application of genomics-assisted breeding for the biofortified cassava pipeline, to guide the use of genomic selection in the future:
Beans:
A perspective article provides details on biofortification techniques aimed at improving the iron content in common beans, a staple crop important for addressing iron deficiency in populations relying on plant-based diets.

The vegan burger at Dulcinea Café Vintage in Cali, Colombia.
Photo Banner: Alliance of Bioversity CIAT Senior researcher Sonia Gallego and vegan restaurateur and chef Leonardo Carrara. Credit: Andrew J Wight.
Scientist
